We made our way from the Christian sector through the archaeological site of the old market to gain views over the city.
Two different types of uniform.
Through the narrow streets of the old town.
Through the market.
Through the remains of the old market with its romanticised view of what it would have been like in Jesus’s time.
Past the modern-day busker.
Out to a terrace with views over the city.
The cemetery of Mount of Olives.
The Wailing Wall.
The al-Aqsa mosque.
Men in uniform.
It was, as one might expect, lavish, spectacular and beautiful. The artists and artisans had certainly gone to town.
One had the feeling that there was definitely an edge of competition here.
As an atheist, I could appreciate the artwork and wonder at the devotion and ecstatic expressions of the worshippers – reminded me of the expression on my face when I met Bo Diddley.
We arrived in Haifa at dawn to discover a port that was not exactly the world’s most picturesque.
Israel intrigued me. I am not a religious man. Indeed, I think religion is the cause of many of our problems. But I was aware of the history and could see that Jerusalem was the focus of centuries of conflict between the three Abrahamic religions. It had fought to an uneasy truce. Jerusalem was the powder keg for the whole Middle East. It could go off at any moment. The Palestinian/Jewish situation looked like it would never be resolved.
For the West this presented a great opportunity to benefit from the unrest. The whole Arab world was in conflict.
It was easy to see how this constant state of animosity and fear pushed people to more extreme positions and beliefs.
I was eager to have a look. A lot of history was bound up in this small area.
Boarding a coach we set off for Jerusalem and received our first glimpses of Israel through the window.
We arrived at the walled city and entered in.
We caught our first glimpse of orthodox Jews. We were going to see a lot more religious extremists in the course of the day.
We arrived at the  Abbey of the Dormition.
I love art and religion sure bought in some experts to produce some great works. I found them all quite wondrous to look at. They are built to impress and Jerusalem is not short of impressive religious works of art. We have 3 religions all trying to outdo each other – to show that they are the real ones and the other two are rubbish. The result, for an atheist such as me, is spectacular.
The Church of All Nations – built in Gethsemane was very impressive.
The garden of Gethsemane was not exactly a huge place. But it had some great old olive trees. I found it interesting to think back to the historical times 2000 years ago when it was probably bigger and Jesus and his followers were hanging out there. What started as a fringe sect of no real import was then made into something else. I bet Jesus would be amazed if he came back. I wonder how much of what he was preaching ended up in the bible and how much was totally misrepresented?
This is Haifa – delightful –
Here we are – into the melting pot of Jerusalem where the fanatics push the populace into more extremes and competition. What a mixture of sympatric separation.
I was converted.
I hadn’t expected much – just religious extremism and over the top architecture as the three branches of the same religion vie for prominence. Our cynical guide peppered the commentary with humour tinged with fears for the future. The Third World War will start here he told us. He might well be right. The most holy of mosques deliberately built on the most holy Jewish temple. Crusader churches built on temples, holy places commandeered and desecrated, and the populace adopting more extreme forms of dress and lavish ritual in response; each more devoutly proclaiming their branch is right. It was all a clamour and melee – the loudness of the call to prayer, the bashing of heads on the wall and the kneeling, kissing and singing before the tomb of Mary. Koptic Christians in medieval garb, fundamental Jews and Muslims – shawls, hats, turbans, veils, robes, black suits, locks of hair, boxes of bibles strapped to the head, texts gripped in hands, rocking back and forth, muttering prayers, singing, chanting, calling to god – all proclaiming theirs is the true way and all else are false. Very colourful. It was amazing watching humans with all their emotions and zeal.
Yet Jerusalem cannot fail to be interesting. Such a diverse mixture of contrasting people, together yet completely separate – such a blend of old and new – such a hotchpotch of architecture of lavish churches, temples and synagogues, cemeteries, tombs and ancient streets – such beauty of embellishment, icons, paintings, architecture. All spray-painted with myth.
Armed guards, soldiers and security, separation of men and women, you take your hats off here and put them on there, shoes off here, on there. You put your left leg in, you take your left leg out.
This was the place that both Jesus and Mohamed are supposed to have risen to heaven, where David and Mary are buried. Well who knows? It’s certainly full of history and myth.
The Mount of Olives, David’s tomb (one of them), the room of the last supper (maybe), Mary Magdalene’s tomb (maybe), the wailing wall, golden domes, minarets, Roman market forum, the old city road, churches and gardens (Gethsemane) – all much more interesting than I thought was going to be the case. We even looked over at Bethlehem and saw the wall, complete with electrified fence and armed patrols, that has been built to separate the Muslims from the Jews. A bit of a Trump solution.
One wonders how all this hatred and lack of trust can be resolved. I’m not sure it can be solved with walls.
Well once again we saw nothing untoward, none of the tensions spilt over.
Off back on the waves towards Malta.
Still in the sunshine for a little while longer.
I think it’s time we have a poem.
I have just been on a journey through Australia and then a cruise back through Indonesia, Java, India, ………. I’ll tell you all about that later. I took a few photos.
One of our stops was Israel. We visited synagogues, churches and mosques. I was busy putting hats and shoes on and off. I was also noting the way the three different religions all tried to outdo each other with their hair and clothes.
So I wrote a poem about it.
That’s what it’s all about
You put your hat on
You take your hat off
Off on – off on
Easy to get wrong.
You do the hocus pocus
Wail and shout
And that’s what it’s all about.
Oh hokus pokus pokus
Oh hokus pokus pokus
Kneel down
Genuflect
Blah blah blah
Take your shoes off
Put your shoes on
Off on – off on
Easy to get wrong.
You do the hocus pocus
Wail and shout
And that’s what it’s all about.
Oh hokus pokus pokus
Oh hokus pokus pokus
Kneel down
Genuflect
Blah blah blah
You put your shawl on
You take your shawl off
Off on – off on
Easy to get wrong.
You do the hocus pocus
Wail and shout
And that’s what it’s all about.
Oh hokus pokus pokus
Oh hokus pokus hokus
Kneel down
Genuflect
Blah blah blah.
26.4.2017
That’s what it’s all about
Jerusalem – a cauldron of hate – as three different branches of the same religion vie for dominance. Synagogues built on top of the holiest temples. Crusader churches built on temples and synagogues. Everywhere desecration, disrespect and intolerance, intransigence and fanaticism as everyone becomes more extreme in costume, behaviour and attitude, clutching holy books, reciting text, praying and genuflecting, holy books stuck to their heads, shawls, beads, crosses and medieval costume.
In amongst it all is some great history, wonderful architecture and brilliant art as each religion strives to outdo the other and pours their resources into proving they are the best.
As I stepped from church to temple to synagogue I found myself putting hats, shoes and shawls on and off as each branch interpreted the word of their god in different ways. Yet it is the same god!
I found it bizarre.
As an antitheist I thought the fanaticism exemplified everything that is wrong with religion. I was particularly disgusted at the little kids being brought into the places as part of the indoctrination programme to produce the next generation of unreasonable devotees.
Is it all a wicked joke?
Islam is in a mess!!
Once again the politics is messed up with the religion!! It’s all about power.
Hamas praises killers who attack unarmed worshippers in a synagogue!
How can any sane person praise someone for attacking innocent people with an axe?
Is that religion?
The Palestinian situation is terrible but the answer is not terrorism!
