Day 16 or beyond (Sat 25th)
The alarm went at five thirty. I hit the deck for the sunrise – except there wasn’t any sunrise. On the deck the wind blew a storm, the boat rocked and rolled like Little Richard – and we’re on a river, not at sea!! Dark storm clouds were all around. I hunted for insects but they were few. The winds had blown them away. I found a couple of moths, the hardier type, plus a few heavier and more stream-lined beetles and the odd grasshopper. A disappointment.
I sat at the table and had a cup of tea in the gloom. There was a majesty to the scene. It was warm and atmospheric. It was also peaceful as the rest of the passengers were still in their cabins.
At lunchtime today we shall reach Manaus!
Manaus
Well we did reach Manaus. In fact, we walked all over it, through the rough areas and the rich. It has that same feel as most of Brazil, a lot of poverty, mass of people, decaying colonial buildings and a sultry, humid heat. The churches and cathedrals are the only buildings that seem properly maintained. I suppose that says something about catholic countries.
As we docked I watched a dredger in the harbour. It was dredging up the great slick of plastic that was floating in the harbour. It had already piled up a huge heap on a great barge! Everywhere you looked there was plastic rubbish!!
The Opera House – the Amazonian Theatre – was incredible – from the tip of its tiled dome to the majesty of its interior. The colourful tiles of the dome glistened in the sunshine. Inside it was lavish, baroque and a bit berserk. Plush seats, turning chandelier, busts, boxes, tiers, ceiling murals and safety screen – all lavish and impressive.
Manaus was built on rubber. When the rubber boom bounced downward it was temporarily abandoned – hence the decay!
So we walked to see palaces, cathedrals and churches, admired the architecture and appreciated the bustling streets, street vendors and merchants, had a beer, then walked along the sea front where people were sleeping in little shelters, vultures were perched on houses and street lights – some pulling a dead cat to bits – the slums on the hillside looked like the favelas of Rio, and stilted houses were in rows along the shoreline.
The heat is just about bearable – about 37 degrees and very humid. We drink and sweat! We escaped further rain – even though we’ve carried around waterproofs and umbrellas!
As a finale we visited the wrought iron market – then back to the boat, sapped, exhausted and in need of a shower!
It was haggis for Burns Night!
I really liked the clothes they were selling in one of the images- they’re so pretty and colourful!
Brazil is about colour, flair and wildness – but it’s edgy with a big downside of poverty and violence.