Travel and Photography
Saigon is an interesting city to walk around. There was so much to see.
Vietnam – Arriving into Halong Bay at dawn – Photos
Journey Pt. 18 – Sigh and it’s Gone – Saigon – Ho Chi Min City Vietnam – Photos
The Journey
Life on the ship is relaxed. There are lectures, time for reading, writing and contemplation, and time to relax in the heat, cool off in the pool and sip a beer while looking out over the sea. The cooks kept themselves amused by making sculptures out of the fruit.
We were not disappointed. There were lots of containers in the container port. I’m becoming an expert on derricks and cranes. We are docked in a commercial dock miles from anywhere so we jumped a taxi and headed off to the city. We have spent the day going around Ho Chi Min City (Sigh gone). In amongst the bustle and grime, the millions of motor cycles and street sellers, there are the remnants of the old beautiful colonial city. It has been knocked about and suffers from neglect and wanton destruction; there are far too many people, too much poverty and too much pollution. It is hot, humid and dirty but the people are friendly. We did our usual walking around, seeing the sights, temples, architectural delights and observing the people. Crossing the road and dodging scooters was interesting even though we had done it before. It still amazes me how whole families all fit on one little moped, how the adults wear helmets but not the kids, the colourful face-masks and shades. Quite unique.
The city is exploding as the population rises – they are planning big expansions but I think the charm is lost in the polluted haze.
It’s the same story the world over – too many people generating poverty and environmental catastrophe.
An interesting place to spend time in though.
Having been here before, we revisited the Post Office and Cathedral but gave the fabulous War Museum a miss. We visited two temples that we missed last time. I find the religious artwork colourful and fascinating, the sacred rocks, pruned trees and flowers have a spiritual pull.
We then strolled through the sculpture park and over to the fish market where live fish are displayed in bowls.
It was fascinating to discover a totally different Hindu Temple in the midst of Saigon.
We went up the tallest building to the Sky View, had a beer and looked out over the expanding expanse. Then we went back to the ship.
As we set off from our wonderful moorings in the Premier Saigon Container Port I was reflecting on the beauty of the surrounds – pylons, silos, derricks, rubbish heaps, wasteland, containers in a variety of colours, oil slicks, muddy brown water, jetsam, flotsam and garbage. Very picturesque.
I try to imagine what it will be like when the population has doubled and the fish have all been gobbled up.
This is how it used to look!
Gonna have an easy day tomorrow – sauna, swimming pool, Jacuzzi and a beer!!
It’s a hard life in this 32 degree heat.
Looming is Singapore, Kuala Lumpur, Penang and Phuket – it is going to be a busy four days – then we’re heading for India!!
Today is the halfway point!! Still lots of amazing things ahead!
Journey Pt. 17 – Vietnam – Hue the Lads!! – Photos
The Journey
I still can’t believe we did all this. An amazing experience.
Here we are in Chan May which is none too inspiring – little more than a dock surrounded by hills of very verdant rainforest, with no discernible township to visit, and it was raining. Mind you warm rain is not as bad as cold rain but the dismal light does make everything look drab.
We were up at the crack of dawn to be transported off to Hue – once the capital of Vietnam. It was two hours away so there was a bit of travelling if we were to see anything. After a hurried breakfast we were whisked through countryside resplendent with bright green paddy fields, regaled with water buffalo, shrines and cemeteries and dotted with very slight individuals wearing their conical bamboo hats. There were the customary bicycles, scooters and a few cars and towns but no time to investigate. The rain persisted – I know – rain! Well more an annoying gusty drizzle really. But at least, even with the breeze, it was warm.
Arriving in Hue we headed for the Royal Palace – or at least what was left of the Royal Palace after it had been bombed in the Indo-Chino Wars, Second World War and Vietnamese War. It is a wonder any of it is left, but there was. They were busily restoring it to its former glory. You could hardly see the joins. If we come again I am sure there will be heaps more ancient historical sites to visit – some are nearing completion and many haven’t even been designed yet. But the Royal Palace with its huge citadel walls was very interesting. In the throne room we were instructed not to take photos of the gold throne – so if anyone wants to see my collection of photos of the throne let me know – they are a little hazy but I understand they are rare.
One of the highlights was an extremely ornate gateway with beautiful inlay. It was a hit with the locals who use it as a background for wedding photos. A young couple were indulging.
We then visited a great ancient Buddhist pagoda where there were willowy girls in silk gowns and conical hats as well as a car that had been the property of a Buddhist Monk who had set himself on fire as a protest.
We headed for a hotel and had a brilliant lunch and were aurally stimulated by a great little band playing the most amazing Vietnamese instruments, many of which I did not know the names of. Food was great too.
Then it was off to the Mausoleum which was dead impressive. There were more intricate designs and colourful inlays. I’m sure the dead emperors appreciated it.
Hue was quite something with its old French architecture. There wasn’t too much traffic compared to Ho Chi Min City and despite the drizzle we had a great day.
When we got back to the boat the weather had deteriorated into a full-blown storm with real rain lashing us and we set off crashing through the breakers pitching, rolling and yawing. Liz took a precautionary pill but we were fine. I think we’ve got our sea-legs.
We woke late to find the ship stationary and an announcement over the PA asking if anyone spoke Vietnamese. This immediately sparked a series of thoughts: perhaps the Captain had woken with an overpowering urge to learn Vietnamese and hoped one of the passengers might assist him in this new venture? Perhaps we had broken down and were adrift at the mercy of the sea and desperately needed to get help from shore but were unable to explain? Perhaps the Vietnamese wanted the names of any passengers who had illicitly taken photos of the King’s throne and so required executing and the Captain was trying to negotiate on their behalf? Or perhaps the Chinese wished to torture anyone who had photo’d their fog in the Straits of Hainan and we were engaged in a diplomatic stand-off in which the Vietnamese were interceding?
Turned out a fishing boat was in need of assistance and we’d stopped to help. So disappointing. Still – off to breakfast and the bed will be made when we get back. Next stop Ho Chi Min City (Saigon). Instead of stopping at Phu My we are now stopping at Saigon Container port! Lots of containers to check out!! It sounds really appetising. But at least it is closer to the city!
Ho my – it is tough on this journey – never lets up! One thing after another! Day 33 already – we’ll soon be halfway
Journey Pt. 16 How Long Halong? Halong Bay – Vietnam – Photos.
The Journey
I’m really enjoying going back through this most incredible trip!
We slipped out of Hong Kong late at night, slid between the dark hills and out to sea.
The next day we were entering the Hainan Straits heading for Vietnam. The Hainan Straits had been built up as an event. I was eager to see this interesting spectacle. However the Chinese had plans to thwart our intent. The Chinese had sanctioned our passage with certain stipulations – under no circumstances were any photographs to be taken on deck! The threat was delivered with great intensity leaving one with the thought that if any of us were to be foolish enough to sneak a snap of anything of interest a missile would surely blow the ship to smithereens. Searching the skies for signs of Chinese surveillance satellites or drones I determined to take a few shots anyway. You only have to tell me not to do something and it is immediately the one thing I’m determined to do. I had not previously had the slightest interest in Chinese defences in the region, in fact I had not realised that it was a delicate area of military tension, but found myself intrigued. I don’t know what all the fuss was about. As it happened the day was hazy and never a sight of land did we see, not a single missile site, tank or airfield, no secret ray guns or experimental laser weaponry, not even a barren island with a sentry box. All my surreptitious plans were thwarted. I have a few shots of distance fog though, should anyone be interested. Some straits those were – we might as well have been in the middle of the ocean.
But what was that Chinese threat all about? Surely a few tourist snaps from a passing ship miles out to sea were not going to show anything a satellite or spy-plane camera wouldn’t reveal in a lot more detail?
The next morning I was up on deck shortly after 5 a.m. I know – madness. But we were coming in to Halong Bay. I wanted to observe the way our doughty Captain manoeuvred our craft through the narrow passages between the large array of conical rocks.
My first surprise was that there were lots of boats out there all lit up with hundreds of lanterns. Some of them were big. They were fishing for squid. It created quite a picture with the tumults of rock illuminated by Disneyland boats.
Our Captain swerved and scudded around the rocks like a ragged rascal. I could imagine him there all alone on the bridge, a bottle of rum in one hand, gaily spinning the wheel first one way and then the other, singing at the top of his voice, as he guided us to harbour.
Halong Bay was misty in the night but cleared up in the day. The sun even broke through and we were able to see it in all its majesty. The surreal conical dolomite rocks stuck up out of the water all around like some aquatic willow pattern scene (and I used to think those Chinese designs were fanciful and imaginative). It reminded me of Guilin after a flood. Very majestic and peculiar.
This was one of the places I had really wanted to visit and now we were here. We’d had to choose between getting in amongst the rocks or nipping off to Hanoi. We decided to explore the rocks. Hanoi was a mere city; Halong Bay was a wonder.
We were tendered ashore on our lifeboats. Then we negotiated with the locals who ripped us off handsomely for a trip out among the towering rocks. They merely drove us to a shipping port and put us on a small boat which probably cost half of what we paid them.
First stop was one of the great rock edifices which was hollow and contained a massive cave full of stalagmites and stalactites. I’m not a great one for caves but these were really impressive, among the best I’ve seen, with sheets and curtains of coloured rocks – wonderful to behold. Huge galleries of rippling glazed rock in surreal spectacle.
Then back to the boat and sailing and weaving through the strange rock formations (along with a mass of other boats). They were stunning, as stunning as I had imagined and impossible to capture in photographs. We were lucky to get to see them as the previous two days it had been heavily overcast and raining. Needless to say I took a few photos. Those rocks are enormous and had been sculpted by wind and water erosion into great conical shapes that seem utterly unique and extremely picturesque.
I can see why it is a UNESCO heritage site. It is quite amazing.
We’re now at sea heading off down Vietnam. I’m just finishing this before heading off for lunch – a curry, a pint and a read up on deck. It’s a bit hazy but 26 degrees – quite pleasant.
Next stop tomorrow – Day 32 – Chan May and Hue (only 40 days to go!).
Then, this afternoon, we get our heads together for a Tete a Tete offensive to decide what to do in Saigon! Always good to plan ahead!
Standing in the Killing Fields
Standing in the Killing Fields
I’ve stood in the Killing Fields
And seen the piles of skulls.
I’ve been sickened
By the torture camps of Pol Pot.
I’ve looked into the ovens
At Dachau
Where they fried six million jews.
I’ve been on holiday
To Vietnam
And crawled along the tunnels
Of the Vietcong.
I’ve peered out of the trenches
In Belgium
Stood in the craters
Where artillery shells
Blew living people
Into shreds.
I’ve stood in many a military graveyard
British, German, American and Argentinian.
I’ve read the names
On the cenotaph, the Menin Gate, Tyne Cot, and a thousand memorials.
The dead of a million wars.
I’ve visited the sites
Of the pogroms
The holocaust,
The public burning of witches,
Catholics, Blacks, Jews and Native Americans.
I’ve walked past the basement
In Prague,
Where the KGB tortured prisoners.
I’ve wandered across Tiananmen Square,
Visited Amrita,
Stood in Turkey where the Armenians were massacred.
Walked through the battlefields
Of Waterloo, Bannockburn, Hastings and the Somme.
I’ve read about Wounded Knee, Sand Creek and Little Big Horn.
I’ve read 1984, Das Kapital, Brave New World, Mein Kampf, Animal Farm and A Day In The Life of Ivan Denisovitch.
I’ve read Silent Spring, The Biological Time Bomb and looked at the bear-pits, the bullrings and watched a live snake eviscerated on Snake Street.
There was always a good reason for all of it.
So, for me,
The message is clear:
Be tolerant,
Respect life,
Love each other,
Love everything.
The other way is torture, war, repression and death.
The history of mankind is the history of pain, torture, war, massacre, hate and intolerance.
Unless we actively change that we are destined to live it again and again.
Let’s make the future better than the past.
I’ll drink to that with anyone!
